I had a long layover in Atlanta on my way to Rio, so I did what comes natural: I left the airport in search of a local meal.

Just past the federal prison, you can find Harold's Barbecue in the Lakewood area--just 15 minutes from the airport. Aside from my asian face, when I stepped into Harold's it was like stepping into a time warp and into 1960s rural Georgia. On this bleak and chilly day in February, the place was empty save for a couple of people and an elderly policeman (was he even working?), all watching the news on TV. You can sit at a table, but why settle for that when you can sit at any of the barstools at the counter?

Thinking that I needed to eat pork in a BBQ joint, I naively ordered the Pork Plate ($7.75). The pork was just all right...all plates come with a slaw like KFC, bacon-laced cornbread, chips, and Brunswick stew. Aaaah. The Stew. Once I took a bite, it was clear that the Brunswick Stew is the star of the show at Harold's. I should have known that when I saw the menu, offering it in various bowl sizes for under $4, and carryouts up to a gallon for $30! It's sweet and a little savory, filled with corn and shredded pork swimming in a tomato gravy that isn't too tomato-ey. It certainly hits the spot on a gray winter day. Slosh it all down with some sweet tea ($1.50) and you're ready to return to the trailer.

Chicago

Thanks to Hurricane Wilma, my trip to Miami was thwarted and rescheduled for Chicago. In December. As you might guess, 7 degrees and snow is normally quite miserable, but if you're just visiting from Hawaii for the weekend it's actually quite invigorating.

Every new city opens opportunities for a Get Together (GTG) with other people I know from Fodors.com/forums. Lisa (aka Makai1) and her husband Bob were nice enough to drive in from the suburbs to join me at Osteria Via Stato for a fabulous Italian dinner. The meal is $35 for a prix fixe menu, which includes a round of starters, a round of pastas, and a choice of one entree per person. You can ask for as many seconds of the first two rounds as you wish, but you will want to save yourself. The food is all elegant and comforting at once, no matter what you decide to order. You can pair your meal with the "Just Bring Me Wine" tasting options, but do not ask for a refill as that is $10 extra. All desserts, coffee, and apertifs/digestifs are extra. There was no room for dessert, so Lisa had Limoncello, a bright and clean-flavored shot. I had the house-made Chocolacello, which tasted like grown up chocolate milk. Bob had Sambuca-laced coffee, and all of this helped us brave the cold as we headed out to Buddy Guy's for some down-home blues.

By the way, the Cashbox Kings were great! Half the band got stuck in a snowstorm in Wisconsin, but they got some local substitutes and went on with the show. The headliner, Skeeter Branson from North Carolina, was very Ray Charles-esque and happy to see us.

Most Chicagoans know that the best food in town is the kind eaten while standing at a counter. You can get a good hot dog almost anywhere in the city, but The Weiner's Circle exudes the true ambience of Chicago street dining. ChiTown locals John Stender & Donna Mack took me there as a pre-party for his first Honolulu Marathon.  The ladies behind the counter are loud, rude, and swear like sailors, and people drive from miles around just to soak it all in. We ordered a "char Polish" with everything and ended up with a full meal. You get onions (grilled or raw), mustard, relish, peppers, two pickle spears and three tomato slices, all for $3.40. For a couple bucks more you can get fries, another huge mountain of food.

Nothing washes down a meal at The Weiner's Circle like a good, classy dessert.  So John, Donna, and I headed over to Uncommon Ground to cap off the evening.  Restaurateurs Mike and Helen Cameron have come a long way since opening their little coffee joint (think "Central Perk") and gradually expanding to the coffee, dining, and entertainment establishment that now takes up what looks like half a block near the famous Wrigley Field.  John & Donna know Mike & Helen personally, so it was a great bonus to see them there and share a yummy bottle of shiraz.  Seventy percent of their menu is vegetarian, but even if you are an omnivore you will find their dishes tantalizing and filling.  We indulged in a massive banana bread dessert and a lovely molten chocolate cake, coupled with large bowls of coffee. 

 

Then I walked for an hour in the snow, exhilarated by the cold air!